Extreme surfing : personal and psychological aspects of big wave riders

Bennett, R. J. and Kremer, P. 2002, Extreme surfing : personal and psychological aspects of big wave riders, in Australian Conference of Science and Medicine in Sport 2002 : sports medicine and science at the extremes, 12 -16 October 2002, Carlton Crest Hotel , Melbourne, Victoria / Sports Medicine Australia, Sports Medicine Australia, Bruce, A.C.T..


Title Extreme surfing : personal and psychological aspects of big wave riders
Author(s) Bennett, R. J.
Kremer, P.
Conference name Australian Conference of Science and Medicine in Sport (2002 : Melbourne, Vic.)
Conference location Melbourne, Vic.
Conference dates 12-16 October, 2002
Title of proceedings Australian Conference of Science and Medicine in Sport 2002 : sports medicine and science at the extremes, 12 -16 October 2002, Carlton Crest Hotel , Melbourne, Victoria / Sports Medicine Australia
Publication date 2002
Total pages xix, 147 p.
Publisher Sports Medicine Australia
Place of publication Bruce, A.C.T.
Summary This qualitative study investigated personal and psychological aspects of big wave riders. A cross-sectional design with non probability purposive sampling was used to gain personal interviews with 32 elite surfers who regularly ride big, life threatening waves. Each athlete was asked three open questions: 1. What do you think are the most important qualities and attributes a surfer needs for riding big waves? 2. What type of mindset is best for riding big waves?, and 3.What motivates you to ride big waves? Content analysis of the taped interview transcripts revealed seven key qualities and attributes including having a thrill seeking, confident and goal oriented personality, a high level of mental strength and control, and an intimate relationship with the ocean. The best mindset included an individually defined arousal level, a committed attitude, and a simple, yet highly aware, focus. Motivations were primarily intrinsic, though drives indicative of a behavioral addiction to the act of riding big waves also emerged. Evidence of common developmental stages for riding big waves also arose from the interviews. Optimal mental approach and preparation techniques are discussed that will enable big wave riders, and other extreme athletes, to more safely and successfully manage extreme situations.
ISBN 9781875334100
1875334106
Language eng
Field of Research 170114 Sport and Exercise Psychology
HERDC Research category E1.1 Full written paper - refereed
Persistent URL http://hdl.handle.net/10536/DRO/DU:30022185

Document type: Conference Paper
Collection: School of Psychology
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