Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

McGregor, Bruce A., Doughty, Amanda, Thompson, John, Naebe, Maryam and Tester, David 2015, Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics, Textile research journal, vol. 85, no. 11, pp. 1153-1166, doi: 10.1177/0040517514566112.

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Title Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics
Author(s) McGregor, Bruce A.ORCID iD for McGregor, Bruce A. orcid.org/0000-0002-4574-4236
Doughty, Amanda
Thompson, John
Naebe, MaryamORCID iD for Naebe, Maryam orcid.org/0000-0002-5266-9246
Tester, David
Journal name Textile research journal
Volume number 85
Issue number 11
Start page 1153
End page 1166
Total pages 14
Publisher Sage
Place of publication London, Eng.
Publication date 2015-07
ISSN 0040-5175
Keyword(s) cashmere/wool blends
fiber crimp
next to skin
resistance to compression
sensory evaluations
softness
wearer trials
Science & Technology
Technology
Materials Science, Textiles
Materials Science
SUPERFINE MERINO WOOL
COMFORT PROPERTIES
FIBRE CHARACTERISTICS
TACTILE APPRAISAL
EVOKED PRICKLE
ANIMAL FIBERS
SKIN COMFORT
LOOSE WOOL
CASHMERE
ATTRIBUTES
Summary Previous investigations have shown that prickle discomfort sensations of wool fabrics are primarily determined by the mean fiber diameter of the wool. It is also known that differences in wool fiber curvature (crimp) affect softness of handle of greasy wool and of wool textiles. In a replicated experiment, we investigated if wearers could detect the effect of using 17 µm superfine wool of low (74°/mm) or high (114°/mm) fiber curvature, and when the wools were blended with 17 µm cashmere (fiber curvature 49°/mm) in differing proportions, on four comfort sensations. Eight single jersey knitted fabrics were assessed under a controlled protocol using forearm sleeves made of the test fabric and a control fabric. Data (37 sensorial assessments of high curvature wool fabrics; 38 sensorial assessments of low curvature wool fabrics) were analyzed using linear mixed model analysis (restricted maximum likelihood), which included fixed effects for wool type and blend ratio and a random effect for participant. The use of a control sleeve fabric reduced variance due to participant effects by providing an anchor for each sensation over time. Wool fiber curvature affected participant assessment of breathability, comfort, feel after exercise (damp/dry) and skin feel (prickly/soft), with preferred values associated with high curvature (crimp) superfine wool. Increasing the proportion of cashmere in fabrics increased skin feel (better assessed softness). Skin feel was strongly associated with the evaluation of the fabrics by the Wool ComfortMeter and with increasing hairiness of yarns.
Language eng
DOI 10.1177/0040517514566112
Field of Research 091012 Textile Technology
Socio Economic Objective 860401 Clothing
HERDC Research category C1 Refereed article in a scholarly journal
ERA Research output type C Journal article
Copyright notice ©2015, SAGE Publications
Persistent URL http://hdl.handle.net/10536/DRO/DU:30073933

Document type: Journal Article
Collection: Institute for Frontier Materials
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