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Fabric handle properties of superfine wool fabrics with different fibre curvature, cashmere content and knitting tightness

McGregor, B.A. and Naebe, Maryam 2016, Fabric handle properties of superfine wool fabrics with different fibre curvature, cashmere content and knitting tightness, Journal of the textile institute, vol. 107, no. 5, pp. 562-577, doi: 10.1080/00405000.2015.1046310.

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Title Fabric handle properties of superfine wool fabrics with different fibre curvature, cashmere content and knitting tightness
Author(s) McGregor, B.A.ORCID iD for McGregor, B.A.
Naebe, MaryamORCID iD for Naebe, Maryam
Journal name Journal of the textile institute
Volume number 107
Issue number 5
Start page 562
End page 577
Total pages 16
Publisher Taylor and Francis
Place of publication Oxford, Eng.
Publication date 2016
ISSN 0040-5000
Keyword(s) cashmere
fabric design
knitting structure
low crimp/high crimp wool
objective testing
superfine merino wool
Summary The handle properties of single jersey fabrics composed of superfine wools (17 μm) of different fibre curvature (114 vs. 74 °/mm) in blends with cashmere (fibre curvature 49 °/mm) were investigated. There were four blend ratios of cashmere (0, 25, 50, 75%) plus 100% cashmere. Each of the nine fibre blend combinations were replicated three times, and each was knitted into three tightness factors. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes and Overall handle, and have been calibrated using a panel of experts and a wide variety of commercial fabrics. Results were analysed by ANOVA and general linear modelling. Tightness factor significantly affected all Wool HandleMeter attribute values, with the effect of tightness factor varying according to handle attribute. The Wool HandleMeter was able to detect differences between fabrics composed of superfine wool differing in fibre curvature, with lower fibre curvature wool fabrics having more preferred Overall handle and softer, looser, cooler, lighter and less dry handle attributes at some or all tightness factors compared with fabrics composed of higher fibre curvature superfine wool. Progressively blending cashmere with wool significantly improved Overall handle, increased soft and smooth handle, reduced dry, heavy and tight handle. Linear regression modelling indicated that fabric mass per unit area explained more than 50% of the variance in overall fabric handle and in combination with variations in fabric thickness and yarn elongation could explain 71% of the variance in Overall handle.
Language eng
DOI 10.1080/00405000.2015.1046310
Field of Research 091012 Textile Technology
Socio Economic Objective 860401 Clothing
HERDC Research category C1 Refereed article in a scholarly journal
ERA Research output type C Journal article
Copyright notice ©2015, The Textile Institute
Free to Read? No
Free to Read Start Date 2018-01-01
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Document type: Journal Article
Collection: Institute for Frontier Materials
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Created: Thu, 18 Jun 2015, 18:21:40 EST

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