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Weathering, fibre strength and colour properties of processed white cashmere

McGregor, B.A. 2016, Weathering, fibre strength and colour properties of processed white cashmere, Journal of the textile institute, vol. 107, no. 9, pp. 1193-1202, doi: 10.1080/00405000.2015.1099355.

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Title Weathering, fibre strength and colour properties of processed white cashmere
Author(s) McGregor, B.A.ORCID iD for McGregor, B.A. orcid.org/0000-0002-4574-4236
Journal name Journal of the textile institute
Volume number 107
Issue number 9
Start page 1193
End page 1202
Total pages 10
Publisher Taylor & Francis
Place of publication London, Eng.
Publication date 2016
ISSN 0040-5000
1754-2340
Keyword(s) UV damage
dehaired cashmere
tenderness
yellowness
cashgora
quality
Summary Weathering refers to the degradation of wool fibres that occur during growth from exposure of the fleece to sunlight, water and air. Weathering damage to Merino wool reduces quantities of fibre that are harvested, reduces length in both raw and processed wools, reduces spinning performance and dyeing outcomes. This work aimed to aimed to quantify if and to what extent weathering occurred in 38 lots of commercial dehaired white cashmere and cashmere top sourced from traditional and new origins of production and the extent of any association between weathering and tensile strength properties of the dehaired cashmere and cashmere top. The cashmere was tested for physical properties, bundle tenacity and extension, tristimulus values brightness (Y) and yellowness (Y-Z) and reflectance. Dye uptake was used as an index of weathering. Linear models, relating to weathering, bundle tenacity and Y-Z were fitted to origin and other objective measurements. Mean attributes (range) were: mean fibre diameter, 17.0 μm (13.5–21.3 μm); bundle tenacity of tops, 10.3 cN/tex (8.3–12.9 cN/tex), for dehaired fibre, 10.1 cN/tex (9.1–11.4 cN/tex). Stain uptake varied from 0.92 to 6.34 mg/g fibre indicating a six-fold variation in the extent of weathering. Both the extent of weathering and the bundle tenacity of commercial lots of cashmere were affected by the origin of the cashmere. Increased weathering reduced bundle tenacity, bundle extension, increased the yellowness and reduced reflectance of white cashmere. Bundle tenacity of cashmere declined as fibre diameter variability increased from 20 to 22.5%. For the samples tested, the cashmere from China, Mongolia, Afghanistan and Iran showed more weathering than cashmere from Australia, New Zealand and the USA. The differences in the extent of weathering and of bundle tenacity between cashmere from different origins were of commercial significance.
Language eng
DOI 10.1080/00405000.2015.1099355
Field of Research 091012 Textile Technology
0910 Manufacturing Engineering
0913 Mechanical Engineering
1203 Design Practice And Management
Socio Economic Objective 860403 Natural Fibres
HERDC Research category C1 Refereed article in a scholarly journal
ERA Research output type C Journal article
Copyright notice ©2015, The Textile Institute
Persistent URL http://hdl.handle.net/10536/DRO/DU:30079836

Document type: Journal Article
Collection: Institute for Frontier Materials
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