The distinctive Balinese subak system of irrigated rice terraces and water temples was recognised as part of the outstanding cultural and natural heritage of humanity through the World Heritage listing of the ‘Cultural Landscape of Bali Province: the subak system as a manifestation of the Tri Hita Karana philosophy’ in 2012. The creation of the category of ‘cultural landscapes’ within heritage practice aimed to expand heritage concepts and enhance recognition of diverse cultural traditions, yet the case of the Balinese subaks demonstrates that there is much to learn about the purposes and the outcomes of heritage conservation. What does it mean to designate ‘everyday’ farming areas, temples and villages as ‘heritage’ in this way? What should heritage conservation seek to achieve in these landscapes, and does heritage help?