Extreme surfing : personal and psychological aspects of big wave riders
conference contribution
posted on 2002-01-01, 00:00authored byR Bennett, Peter Kremer
This qualitative study investigated personal and psychological aspects of big wave riders. A cross-sectional design with non probability purposive sampling was used to gain personal interviews with 32 elite surfers who regularly ride big, life threatening waves. Each athlete was asked three open questions: 1. What do you think are the most important qualities and attributes a surfer needs for riding big waves? 2. What type of mindset is best for riding big waves?, and 3.What motivates you to ride big waves? Content analysis of the taped interview transcripts revealed seven key qualities and attributes including having a thrill seeking, confident and goal oriented personality, a high level of mental strength and control, and an intimate relationship with the ocean. The best mindset included an individually defined arousal level, a committed attitude, and a simple, yet highly aware, focus. Motivations were primarily intrinsic, though drives indicative of a behavioral addiction to the act of riding big waves also emerged. Evidence of common developmental stages for riding big waves also arose from the interviews. Optimal mental approach and preparation techniques are discussed that will enable big wave riders, and other extreme athletes, to more safely and successfully manage extreme situations.
History
Event
Australian Conference of Science and Medicine in Sport (2002 : Melbourne, Vic.)
Publisher
Sports Medicine Australia
Location
Melbourne, Vic.
Place of publication
Bruce, A.C.T.
Start date
2002-10-12
End date
2002-10-16
ISBN-13
9781875334100
ISBN-10
1875334106
Language
eng
Publication classification
E1.1 Full written paper - refereed
Title of proceedings
Australian Conference of Science and Medicine in Sport 2002 : sports medicine and science at the extremes, 12 -16 October 2002, Carlton Crest Hotel , Melbourne, Victoria / Sports Medicine Australia