Compression and surface properties of Mongolian cashmere tops related to tactile characterization

The high quality of cashmere contributes to the superior handle of luxury fabrics. However, there is little understanding of the subtle differences among cashmere samples that induce differentiation of the resulting soft luxury fabrics. In this study, we focused on developing an objective way to simulate the hand touch of an expert by applying low compression pressure and frictional force on a fabric. The softness of cashmere is characterized under low applied force, as are its compression and surface properties. The compression energy (WC) and displacement (Dmax) at a maximum pressure of 250 Pa can be used to differentiate among samples. Fibers with higher mean curvature have lower WC, indicating the effect of fiber slippage during compression. The mean coefficient of friction (MIU) shows a significant difference (p ≤ 0.05) among fine cashmere fibers. Softness as evaluated by the hand touch of an expert can be explained by both WC and MIU.