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"Thus to wander far away On from island unto island At the gateway of the day«"

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ACKITOWLEDGTMMT.

Thanks to all the happy Pilgrims who contributed to the pages of this Erochure.

THE MESSAGE OF THE CHAIRMAN

Rev. G.Ho Hewitt i.


Fellow Pilgrims of the Methodist Missionary Argosy.'

As our delightful Pilgrimage draws to a close, I would again remind you of our Heavenly Father's care so richly bestowed upon us all» from sickness, stormy seas, the dangers and discomforts often incidenta.1 to ocean travel, we have been graciously preserved.

On the human side we owe a debt of gratitude to the Rev. Richard Piper, our Organising Secretary, who with marked ability, courtesy and. self-sacrificing toil has striven to ensure the happiness of all on the Cruise. Mr.Piper has been ably supported by his assistant, the Rev.A.Morris Yates. Our thanks arc due to all other members of the Committee.

We shall always remember the wonderful welcome accorded us by the Q,ueen and people of Tonga. Their lavish hospitality, their religious fervour, their good government, happy social conditions and missionary enthusiasm afford a striking proof of the saving and elevating power of the Gospel.

In Samoa we met a people exhibiting the same fine Christian spirit of loyalty to Methodism and her Lord. We have reason to be proud of our Samoan people, both in their home land and in the newer Mission Fields. Our visit, we hope has fired their zeal, strengthened their faith, and enlarged their outlook.

Our visit to Fiji was brief, but to many of us it was tie renewal of a happy fellowship. We were officially welcomed by the presentation of the Chiefly "Tabua" or whale's tooth, and given many assurances of the love of the Chiefs, Ministers and people. The concert in the Town Hall and the unique Sunday Service were tangible proofs of the wonderful progress made by the native Church.

We were saddened by the thought that there are over 8^,000 Indians in Fiji of whom less than a thousand have been definitely won to Christ. However, the inspiring address by the Rev.Ramsay Deoki, and the private testimony of other Indian Christians fills us with a great hope of leading them all to accept Him as their Saviour.

FROM THE BRIDGE.

This is the second time the T.S.S. "Katoomba" has been fortunate in being chosen by the Methodist Missionary Society for a cruise to the Coral Islo.nds of the Pacific.

The cruise has been full of interest and most enjoyable, and I feel sure that all on boatd will look back on this cruise with very happy memories of the enjoyable times they have had on the several Islands and on board the "Katoomba’1.

The success of the cruise is mainly due to the splendid organisation and management of the Rev. Mr. Piper and his staff in the manner the cruise has been conducted.    •

I wish the Society every success in their Missionary efforts in the Islands of the Pacific.

JOHN R. KIDD

COMMANDER.

Commander - John R. Kidd,

Chief Officer -2nd    do.

3rd    do.

4th    do.

Purser

Asst. Purser Surgeon

Wireless Optr. Radio Announcer Violiniste do.


John S. Burns John A. Grant Wilfred P. Raine Erank Roberts George L. Blake Hedley C.W. Bennett Dr. Do Yoffa Win. J. V/ashbourne Miss L. Keyes Miss M. Blackburn Miss C. Murphy

Stewardess


Chief Engineer 2nd    do.

3rd    do.

4th    do.

5th    do.

6th    do.

7th    do.

Electrician Chief Steward 2nd    do.

2nd Class do.


Constance McMichael.


- Norman McKay A. McL. Rait Gordon McFarlane Henry N. Lax Neil McKay Robt. C. Blaikie Percy Warne Roy N. Bloomfield Cecil C. Cox Charles Jacobs A.T. Thornhill


FROM THE BEAUTY PARLOUR.

You have not finished dressing in the morning until you

put on a smile.

TONGA.

MALO-E-LELEI1 Greetings! Such is our welcome to the Friendly Isles, so named by Captain Cook on , that great voyage of exploration, because of the outwardly kindly reception afforded him. Tonga, land of many wonders and sunlit isles, set in a sapphire sea fringed with stately palms and girt with thundering white crested surf. A little Island Kingdom, a British Protectorate of approximately 150 islands, rich in their fertility and variety; a coral atoll or a rugged towering mountain peak with cliff girt shores - such are the contrasts of this fascinating land.

Here is a people with a history reaching back into the mists of antiquity, allied in custom and language with those lands and peoples near the cradle of our race on the eastern shores of the Mediterranean. Scholars tell us that their religions, customs and language are closely allied to, and frequently identical with, those of the ancient Hebrew race, though p.ossibly of an older stock. From Arabia or the Valley of the Euphrates they came, adventurers into the great Southern Ocean, and here found a home, and founded a nation that has maintained with remarkable purity many of the characteristics, even to this day, of the ancient race from which they sprang.

As we watch these tall stately men and women moving with easy grace, we say to ourselves, "Such as these were they, who with their faces toward the sunrise, journeyed on into the unknown, and found a sanctuary in these fertile isles". Unknown until the sons of another white-skinned race, centuries later, came sailing out of the West.    *

What mystery surrounds the story of the HA'AMOGA, the prehistoric huge stone arch with its 14 ft. high posts of hewn rock,

8 ft. in diameter, and its huge portal mortised Into the uprights, the mystery of its building and builders lost in those distant ages of the past. Its natural wonders; the great Blow Holes of Houma, throwing up their clouds of surf, awe-inspiring and majestic In their extent and grandeur; FALCON ISLAND the Island volcano which has been recreated on a number of occasions, at least, in the period of recorded history. In 1898 it completely disappeared to reappear. In 1900; the honey-comb caves of VAVAU with their grottoes of arched rocks and clear limpid water; the colony of flying foxes around which a town has grown, where they are preserved; the legendary story of their importation from Samoa. Such is the land to which we are welcomed - Malo-e-lelei - by Its 40,000 inhabitants.

A Kingdom in miniature fashioned upon the model of England; The Home of the Free!    .    .

THE ROYAL CONCERT AT NUKUALOFA.

An outstanding function of the Cruise was the Complimentary Concert, arranged by Queen Salote on the first night of the visit to Tonga, Friday 21st May.

The venue was the Victoria Memorial Hall, Nukualofa, a building controlled by European residents.

• Admission tickets were returned on presentation and are now valued souvenirs.

Prior to the concert a Tongan band rendered items. The playing of "God Save the King" announced the arrival of the British Vice-Consul, Mr. Hyne; later the Tongan National Anthem signified Queen Salote’s entry.

The programme consisted of twelve dances expressive of all' phases of Tongan life, ancient and modern, and included canoe dances, war dances, lakalakas (for festive occasions) and folk song dances.

Young men and women were the performers. Their lusty, tuneful singing was a revelation; the gorgeous colouring of their clothes and adornments gave glamour to their persons, while their skins anointed with coconut oil glowed in the brilliance of the light.

Rhythm, a feature of their work, they appeared to maintain by foot movement.

The opening dance incorporating a song for canoe rowers commenced off stage and the audience was placed in a state of expectancy wondering what was to follow. A fine climex was subsequently achieved.

Another dance "Eke" in which the dancers changed places while striking sticks together in time with their singing demanded agility on the part of the men to avoid striking one another.

It was evident throughout that for effectual interpretation of the dances great skill and precision were required.

That this programme from a local standpoint was unique was the considered opinion of a resident official with seventeen years experience. He stated that he had witnessed certain work for the first time.

In these dances the Tongans are developing from a remnant of savagery a classic art which will be preserved and treasured as time passes.

I deem it a great privilege to have had the pleasure of participating in Tonga's welcome to the Ministers and Members of the Methodist Church now touring the Pacific in the T.S.S. "KATOOMBA".

Anyone who has lived in the Pacific for a number of years, as I have, is afforded excellent opportunity of realizing to the full the value of the devoted service to Pacific Peoples of the Ministers and Missionaries of this Church, and it is my earnest hope that the success which has attended, and which attends their labours, may long continue.

R. HYNE,

British Vice Consul, Tonga.

Sunday, May 25rd-

THE WELCOME BY TUGI, PREMIER OF TONGA.

My heart is strangely stirred tonight. I doubt whether there has been such a gathering since Captain Cook landed here, as this gathering of Christian men and women from the "KATOOMBA”. Many boats have visited us, each with many interests, but you men and women come to us with one purpose and one heart.

We have always appreciated the ones and twos of our Ministers visiting Tonga, but there has never been a visit like this, which will be a great enrichment to us and assures us of the truth, that colour or speech does not matter. We are all one in the great family of God.    We of Tonga ofuen look round

and see that the customs and v/ays of European people are so different from ours, but, through you, we see that we are all one, and it is indeed pleasing to have so many Australians visiting us at one time.

People often ask me when I travel, "Where do you belong?" I say "Tonga, but if you don't know Tohga, I am an Australianl"    '    -

Here I would like to say.a few words about', the Chiefs and people of our kingdom, and the first thing is the custom pertaining to the way in which we live. We dwell as one family, and with apologies to the Queen, I would say that the Queen is our father and mother.

Many things have been introduced into our midst -things useful and profitable - but nothing of such value as the Church and its message. It is the one thing that makes for unity of our people - the principles of the gospel of Jesus Christ.

Before I sit down I would like to say one more thing of the "KATOOMBA". Among the passengers there is a nurse from the hospital that cared for our Queen during her illness.

On behalf of our people and on my own behalf I would like to thank her and the hospital staff for all that they did for our Queen.

I also wish to thank the Board of Missions. Although we are an independent Church we have not yet acquired all the strength of manhood, but we are aspiring.

We appreciate all the help and sympathy you have shown. We look upon you as our fathers, and I am sure that we will always receive a sympathetic response from you. My love to you all.

THE ADDRESS OF HER MAJESTY QUEEN SALOTE D.B.E. TONGA.

Mr. President, Ministers and Friends, gathered here,

I thank God for His goodness and His grace in giving the opportunity of our meeting each other here tonight.

It is a great joy to me to hear and to see you, and to receive the greetings to me and my people, and we appreciate your presence very much.

It is a difficult meeting. It has two faces. We meet but we have to part, but I would ask you, each one, as you return to your homes, to make known the fact that we love you and your people every one.

The speeches tonight were very representative of the different States of Australia, and of the ladies and laymen, and I hardly know what I am to represent, so I think I will be the representative of the women of Tonga.

We    must recognise that    we are    a small land,    and a

small people.    We are only on the    way in    the matter of    education,

and in the knowledge of the things and'happenings that belong to the great world outside.

We are not a wealthy people. We have very little money. No one is very rich but no one is in want.

If    I were to speak of various    phases of our    life,    it

would give    you    pleasure, but there    is one    fact that must have

impressed itself upon you, that is, that our people are a cheerful people. The root of that cheerfulness lies in two things - our faith and our land. Before the church came, our people were cheerful, but they were living in serfdom, and fear.

It is true that they did not feel their serfdom very much. They did not realize that they were serfs. But the missionaries came with the truth of Jesus, and the King’s heart, being touched, he led them to realize their serfdom, and with the knowledge of God real cheerfulness came, with freedom from fear.

' Though poor, their religion gave them a true cheerfulness, but although they had arrived at cheerfulness through their faith, they were still poor, and had no way to show their faith. When the land was distributed to them, they were able to prove their faith.    Now you see how free they are -

free as Britishers - every one has his own land granted by the sovereign. The freedom that they enjoy is different. If you have a strike everything becomes hard and difficult, and the comforts of life are affected. But such things cannot happen here. In our land no one can disturb the contentment. No one can create a strike. If a man wants to fish he may fish.    If he

wants to grow yams he may grow yams. If he doesn’t want to do so, he doesn’t grow them! That is the way the Tongans live.

I will say of the church, that it is developing a healthy tone. It has its ups and downs as you have had on your cruise, as some of you know, but we have a firm and constant faith in God. In Him is our trust.

In your    coming, and    in your going    we    have not

sufficient    words to    express our    feelings,    but    we    are one with

you in our desire to further the gospel in heathen lands. We will part tonight, each of you to take up your own duties, while we remain here to do our work. There will be many providences hard to understand,    but we have    the words    of the    great human

founder of    our church "The best    of all is    God    is    with us".

My love to you all.

STOP PRESS NEWS—— All the Pilgrims will be delighted to leann that the moving pictures with natural sound taken by the Fox Film technicians are decidedly first class.    The ‘Dhotgranhy

is excellent.    The recordings of the choirs are thrilling

I have heard again the magnificent singing of the choirs through the medium of the films.

IT


One R. P.,T

Saturday; I,Iay 2^rd.

a


visit to mfiiorial of r^vs.j.thcm^s and j.hutchinson.

En route from Nukualofa to Hihifo, the site of the Memorial of the Revs.John Thomas and John Hutchinson, were many interesting scenes. Native villages, neat and clean were passed. The road passed through avenues of coconut palms, interspersed with banana,» breadfruit end paw paw trees as well as other luxuriant tropical growths.    The

happy faces of large families of laughing children waving their wclconc were truly a delight.

Along this route is to be seen one of the most interesting features of the fauna of Tongatabu, namely, hundreds of "Flying-foxes." They were hanging to the trees in an inverted position in such numbers as to present the appearance of overloaded crops of large fruit. ¿En flocks they presently rose above the trees and flew like oversized pigeons. One remarkable peculiarity of these winged creatures is that they extend their patronage only to one village in the island, viz. Kolovai, where they arc given sanctuary.

^    The spot where the two gallant "Johns" arrived on June

28th, 1826, is marked by a polished black marble obelisk set on a stepped concrete foundation. This had been unveiled by the Queen of Tonga one hundred years, to the day, after the arrival of these valiant pioneers of the Cross. The memorial bears the following inscription -

"On June 28th, 1936 This stone was erected by a grateful people To the glory of God, and to commemorate The Revs.

John Thomas and John Hutchinson the pioneer missionaries of Tonga who arrived here June 28th

1826."

At this sacred spot our hearts were deeply touched and stirred by a short service, conducted by the Rev.Wesley Amos. Mr.Amos referred to the previous missionary attempts at Tonga, by the London Missionary Society, three of whose Agents had been murdered, and the Mission abandoned, and to the resumption of the work in 1822 by Rev.

Walter Lawry (the second missionary appointed by the Wesleyan Missionary Society to Australia, 1815). Owing chiefly to the sickness of Mrs.Lawry Mr.Lawry left a,ftcr eighteen months. In 1826 came Thomas and Hutchinson. They and their wives were faced by terrible danger. The death of the child of Mr.and Mrs.Thomas added sorrow to the danger. Mr.Amos read from a diary a text inserted by Mrs.Thomas above her signature in 1856 -"When_thou passcst through the waters I will be with thee, and through the rivers they shall not overflow thee." Isa.43:2.    This was the trust

ful spirit that had upheld her in dangerous and troubled days.

Visit to Memorial of Revs.Thomas and Hutchinson - (contd.)

Prayer was offered, by the Rev.George Dyson, son of the - pioneer Missionary, Rev.Martin Dyson. "For all the. Saints” was sung, followed by Luther's tune to the words "We come unto our Fathers' God.” Our hearts were full. There were lumps in our throats and moisture in our eyes, at the. conclusion of this brief service.

On the return trip we stayed for a few'moments at another memorial marking the spot where these pioneers celebrated the first sacrament of the Lord’s Supper in Tonga, on the first Sunday in October 1826.

A TEACHER'S TESTIMONY.

Education i3 a "leading into" and nowhere have I seen the word expressed so completely as in these islands of great beauty where young people are faithfully led from darkness to light.and from ignorance to knowledge.

One is quickly struck by the unity of the instruction, no one portion of the child's make-up being neglected, but he is led from the physical to the mental, and from the moral to the spiritual, all this working a transformation of character. The pupils arc all interested in the transformation. This is readily noticeable in their conduct, which is one of conformity to all the rules laid down for their guidance.

There is nothing one-sided in their training, but the young person is seen complete and beautiful with health, happiness, contentment and choice conduct as a great aid to spiritual development.

The writer was engaged in many schools in Victoria for a long period, but has never met anything to approach the young life that greeted the tourists.

Population of Tonga 093.5)    30,693 Slow increase

There is no public debt. Education is free and compulsory All land is the property of the Crown. Every Tongan    , p

taxpayer is entitled to acres and a small town allotment Tonga has been a British Protectorate since May 1900.

•......'J •    1- NjiTIOiT .tiT WORSHIP.    T OHGA. Sunday 23rd May.

If religion of the highest kind is the greatest stabilising,.humanising and uplifting influence in the life of a nation:, and it is, then the small Island Kingdom of Tonga under the regime of that splendid Christian Queen Salote rests upon secure foundations« To the pilgrims of the "KATOOMBA" journeying through the Pacific, it was a great experience to spend a Sunday on Tonga,

Tabu and. to take part in national worship.

The Christian Sabbath is strictly observed in Tonga.

The day commenced with a great prayer meeting at 5« 3° a.m. attended by 200 Tongans and a few friends from the "Katoomba." The Tongans have 111 years of Christian history behind them and are steeped in the spirit of devotion. The great service of the day was held at 9«3° c-.m. on Sunday May 23rd. More, than 1,000 attended a service conducted by the Rev.Rodger Page, the President of the Tongan Conference. The Queen attended, thu3 setting a fine example to her people. .An interesting feature was the use of a Ten gan translation of Wesley’s abridged order of morning worship. Singing plays a large part in the religious life of Tonga and what singing it was I Souli were thrilled and there were moist eyes in the congregation as their paeans of praise rose cxultingly to God. The sermon was preached by the Rev.G.H.Hewitt, who took the text Romans l.l6 - "For I am not ashamed of the Gospel of Christ." This was closely related to the work of the Christian Missions in Tonga, Samoa and Fiji. Ordinarily no offering is taken at this service, but the members of the Cruise asked the privilege of contributing and presented to God the goodly sum of £70317:5 which greatly cheered the Tongan Church. The great congregation united in the-,concluding.hymn- "0 Love That Wilt not Let Me Go" to the favourite tune "St.Margaret."

Simultaneously with this service an overflow meeting was hold in the commodious school attended by some 300. The sermon was preached by the Rev.Harlan Dc-lbridge ,B.A., and was interpreted by Prince Tugi, the Consort of Queen Salote. At the same hour^the Rev.

R.C.Nicholson conducted service in Tu.bou College and the Rev. 17.Kills Robson at the Tongan Village of Houma.

In the afternoon- there was a great trilingual service in the main Church then lessons and prayers were heard in English,

Fijian and Tongan. This service was conducted by the Rev.Wesley .Amos and his former Colleague from Fiji Apisai Nau (Younger brother of the great missionary Semesi Hau). At the same hour an overflow service was conducted in the School Hall attended by the girls of the Methodist Lagies’ College, many Tongans and some “Katoomba" passengers. The sermon on this occasion was delivered bjr the Rev.E.J.Hatele M.A. and translated by the Rev.R.Page.

A NATION AT WORSHIP - TONGA. Sunday 2^rd May, (contd.)

In the evening a great farewell demonstration was held in the School Hall. The Queen and her son Prince John and Consort, Prince Tugi, with Government officials wore present. During the evening addresses of welcome were presented from the various States of the Commonwealth and a very beautifully illuminated address, signed by all the pilgrims, was presented to Her Majesty by the Organiser of the Cruise* The Queen responded in a noble utterance to be found elsewhere in this report. A handsome copy of the new Methodist Hymnbook was presented to the Rev.Rodger Page by the members of the Cruise and Mr.Page was deeply moved by tlE gift. At a late hour this great day of worship ended in the singing of the Tongan Rational Anthem..

TREASURE.

Glorious sunlit days at sea

When thoughts can roam, and fancy’s free,

Silvery lights that flash and gleam,

Are flying fish upon our beam.

Glamorous isles of perfect shape,

At which we town-bred mortals gape,

Coral reefs, waves breaking high,

Graceful palms against the sky,

Flowery glades and brilliant skies,

Ebon babes with dreamy eyes,

Tropic moon whose golden glow Bathes the shimmering waves below,

Dark brown limbs in rhythm moved,

/J.1 these have I seen and loved.

In town when rain steams down all day, And everything is dull and grey,

When at my desk with wearied brain I add those figures once again,

My thoughts will fly some thousand miles To cruise again mid coral isles.

■    ■ ".THE MUDDY PILGRIMAGE" UP MT. TALAU. (450 ft)

"Tomorrow's programme", anndunced thè Radio Kookaburra, "We leave to climb Talau at 6 a.m., then we breakfast ashore as guests at a native feast". Next morning about 200 pilgrims gathered at the starting point waiting for a leader. Rain had fallen during the night, but the day promised fine and warm.    ■

Off we went, a happy party, Radies in nice clean frocks, men in creased and spotless pants,. If we had only known - but it's just as well we cannot read the future.

About 100 yards along the track the first casualty occurred -the rain had made the track slippery, and one clean frock ; came to grief - another followed, and sartorial catastrophes soon became general - not only frocks, but trousers and shirts followed each other into muddiness, and, as the path became steeper, so the slides became longer and muddier. The leaders reached the end of the track, but not the top of the hill -we were on the wrong road.

Then someone remembered a track we had passed leading upwards - back we went to this, and now the real fun commenced. The path led upward steeply through a tangle of creepers, ferns and trees, all moisture laden. Still onward and upward, and now the slimmer members of the party came into thoir own. "How much farther" panted one stout gent.

At last a ringing call announced the end. Tasmania being the first on top. What a view lay before us - worth the climb? Of course it was. There lay the beautiful harbour, isle studded, with the "Katoomba" and dozens of native craft.

We stood and. sang "For the beauty of the earth" then followed a short prayer and the early arrivals started to descend.

Going down was just as bad as climbing up, and when at last we reached, the feast, we were a sorry sight "Mud to the left of us, Mud to the right of us, Mud in front of us, and Mud all over us, dirty 200".

NATIVE FEAST - NEIAFU (VAVAU)

Did    we enjoy    the feast? Never did    roast pork taste

better.    What    a spread    there was before usi    Three long palm

shelters,    each    with two    rows of food spread on    leaves on the ground,

about every six feet was a roast pig, garnished with taro roots, yams, fish, crayfish, poultry, coconuts, bananas, bread fruits,and here and there piles of salt. We sat native fashion on one side of a row of food, and our hosts faced us, sitting on the other

> f

side. Happy speeches of welcome were made by native ministers. "Adam and Eve" said one, "had no tables or chairs or knives and forks, but sat as we are sitting, eating with their fingers roast pig and taro root, so we are doing what they used to do".

After the feast a procession arrived bearing gifts for the pilgrims. These were piled outside the feasting house; all sorts of gifts were brought, baskets, mats, beads, bowls, fruit, live fowls, and even a dog, all were presented with appropriate speeches. Then followed native dances and singing for our entertainment till the ship's siren called us aboard. We sailed to the strains of "God be with you" sung by the crowd on the wharf.

After we had left the wharf we were startled to find that we had carried away with us five young Tongans. They however had no intention of staying with us. They dived from the deck into the water and the last wo saw of them was their black heads bobbing shorewards.

Thursday, May 27th.

SAMOA.    THE SAMOAN SONG OF WELCOME.

(Sung at Faleula)

(Rendered into English by Avele-Tanugamanono, Samoa.)

It was relayed by the waves of the ocean, and the mountains responded, that your visit would be that of leaders inspiring their fellow workers. Now we are on the shores of Samoa - "Welcome".

Dawn is just awakening, there's something that is new in our existence. We sing of joy and of thanks. Let us all sing of the Almighty's praises.

What is your message? A deliverance of good-will. That which you bring is most craved for in time of need. We need encouragement and inspiration from you. We need your cooperation and your direction.

Today your presence reminds us of the pioneer who blazed the trail to these far flung domains. That is Mr. Turner. It was he that kindled the fire of Christianity, now a conflagration in Samoa, one hundred years ago. Bravol

0 missionaries and pastors, may you be tireless heralds of the Kingdom of Christl May we work, and work, before night falls.    '

Mr. Maddox and Mr. Pardey - may you have resourcefulness in your most useful work - that is of educating the young men and women upon whom the responsibility of the church would rest. May God make them endurable and lasting pillars for the foundation and fulfilment of His Will.

Soifual

EXCERPT FROM THE SPEECH OF THE ACTING ADMINISTRATOR OF SAMOA “ GENERAL.A. G. TURNBULL.

I am glad to be able to express a welcome on behalf of my Government to our, visitors today, and to pay a tribute to the work of those who represent the Methodist Church in these Isles.

We recall our indebtedness to the Mission you represent. The first Missionaries to reach this land were your converts who came here from Tonga. In fact the Mission work they established was known as the Lotu Tonga.

Through all the years of troubled Samoan history you have had a succession of devoted men and women who have ever sodght the highest welfare of thp native?, Iti education yph ha^e played your part and in the development of Samoa yeu have giVeh a worthy contribution.

I trust that your labours will continue to be successful and that your visit will contribute to a wider and more sympathetic knowledge of this land and people.

May the Divine blessing be with you.

A. C. TURNBULL,

Acting Administrator. Apia - Samoa.

THE FAUTASI FLOTILLA.

3y Peter Pan the Barnacle,

Y/ho can describe that indescribable and never-to-be forgotten sight, the "welcome" to Apia, as we came from the open sea? Some four and twenty Fautasis, long rakish .canoes, sturdily built, manned by stalwart crews of nearly a 1000 sturdy men, all Methodist, vied one with the other to give us a welcome such as is seldom, if ever before, given. Certainly, so far as recent history is concerned, such a thing has never been seen. The flags of varied design and colour spoke a language of their own, in most cases denoting varied aspects of Island inter-tribal customs, and aspects of religious, political and economic life. The beating of improvised drums (modern version) viz., kerosene tins, was in quaint contrast to the tom-tom that once called the primitive Island men to great adventures, demanding sacrifices even that of life itself.

Stalwart coxwains stood up in the sternshccts urging on their men to greater effort at the approach of an overtaking canoe. The "tossing of oars" saluting those to whom they offered generous welcome, is a custom handed down from time immemorial and is likely to pass on till time is no more.

The writer had the privilege of commanding the gallant little ship, the "John Williams", whose mission was to carry the men dedicated to the proclamation of the glad tidings of the Evangel of Peace unto the uttermost parts of the earth. vThi.lc in this command, the H.M.S. "Renown bearing the Prince of Vales arrived at Apia and anchored off shore, but no Fautasi greeted the Prince’s arrival, or farcwclled his departure.

A great feast was given in his honour, but splendid as it was, it could not compare with the Samoan welcome to the Methodists of the "Katoomba," or the gorgeous feasts given to us by that incomparable lady, Oucen Salote, of the Friendly Isles, and her generous people.

In conclusion, it has been a unique and splendid cruise, the like of which may never occur again in our life time, and we may consider ourselves greatly privileged in being members of so goodly a company.

It is our fervent hope that the objectives of this ever-to-bc-remembered cruise will be accomplished.

Population of Western Samoa (1934)    32,487. Stea&y

Increase. The Territory is under mandate to New Zeahand

THE PEARL OF THE PACIFIC.

SAMOA


Named by Bougainville in 1768 "isles des Navigateurs", the Sailor Isles, inspired no doubt by the fleets of fishing canoes to be seen in its waters as they followed the bonito, a sort of mackerel.

One is conscious in Samoa that the terrific forces of nature have been at work in the formation of this land of wondrous beauty, set in a silver sea. Great lava beds, broken serrated mountain peaks, valleys rich in deposits of volcanic ash providing food for prolific vegetation, all tell of those mighty forces, destructive and creative by which God fashions the form of the land around which He sets the bounds of the restless sea.

It is said of Samoa "No similar stretch of coral reef in all the South Pacific Isles conjures up such tales of romance and adventure, of political and international strife, of hatred, love and warfare, of intrigue and conspiracy, or piracy battle and murder."    Such is the story of the land to which we hasten.

The adopted home and the last resting place of TUSITALA, the teller of tales, Robert Louis Stevenson.

In front of us, as we enter the harbour is MOUNT VAEA on the summit of which lies who wrote: "Home is the sailor, home from the sea."

To this cockpit of the Pacific he came, in those days of crisis in intertribal affairs and rival factions, when strong men fought for mastery, and great world powers, sat jealously watching, until the great cyclone smashed their vessels of war, and scattered the bones of ships and men as fragments on the beach, and only one small craft won out to sea, an epic story of sailor daring. Samoa to thee we come to catch if may be, the glamour of thy wondrous spelll

As we approach we are met by a fleet of twenty five FAUTASI (a long clinker built boat), seating twenty to twenty five oarsmen side by side, moving in perfect rhythm. Thus ours might be termed the welcome of a thousand oarsmen, we have reached the Sailor Isles. It is truly a magnificent sight, rarely if ever paralleled in the story of Apia, a royal welcome as we are escorted to the anchorage.

short motor drive took us through most with smiling native children everywhere, greetings. Passing through the gates, around opical shrubs, we came to the historic two-re only able to see over the lower, part as it is the administrator of ’7cstern Samoa. A beautiful fireplace, which we were told was the only one a reminder to Stevenson of his home in far off one of the fine old chairs arid signed the visitor s a gracious home and a sense of pcc.cc entered

all too

picturesque villages flowers and shouting spacious lawns and tr storied house, hut v/c now the residence of screen was before the in Samoa, and merely Scotland.    ’.7e sat in

hook. Truly this wa our hearts.


waving


Leaving this lovely tropical home, we passed along the Road of the Loving Hearts, that had been made by the Samoans as a love-gift to Stevenson. accompanied by many natives, large and small, we crossc to the '"'usic of tinkling waterfalls, a crystal, stream, over a-tiny bridge from which the middle plank was missing.

In single file we picked our way along the narrow track, avoiding the rocks and dodging the creepers. At another steep bend, we were glad to sec two progressive Chinese with icy cold lemon squash to quench the thirst, at one shilling per glass. Refreshed, we pressed on with renewed vigours obliging Samoan youths came to our rescue, pushing from behind, others pulling from the front. The track now took us through the deep forest and overhead the doves cooed and * birds tv/ittered, for the Samoans had prohibited the use of firearms in this Sanctuary. After half cn hour's herd climbing we. reached the Summit of Mt. Vaca (some lJpOO feet) on which rested the tomb of Robert Louis Stevenson - the teller of talcs.

Our guide, the Rev. Y/esley Amos, conducted : beautiful little service of remembrance, sketching briefly the life of R.L.S. from his home in the old land to his death at Vailima and his burial by Samoan hands, quoting his great motto -

"I must not stand and slouch, but do my best as best I can.”

_    Together we sang his own requiem, set to the plaintive melody]

by Sidney Homer.    The epitaph is preserved in bronze on the side of

the t omb -

"Under the wide and starry sky Dig the grave and let me lie,

Glad did I live and gladly die And I laid me down with a will.

This be the verse you grave for me Here he lies where he longed to be Home is the se.ilor home from Sea find the hunter homo from the hill.11

1850


Robert Louis Stevenson


1894


Upon the other side in the Samoan language is the beautiful lament of Ruth -‘

"Entreat me not to leave thee".

Moving to the front of the tomb, we heard of the bringing of the remains of the faithful wife from California to rest by his side. To her memory the beautiful tribute written years before by Stevenson is inscribed -

"Teacher, tender comrade, wife,

A fellow farcr, true through life,

Heart whole and soul free,

The August Father gave to me".    1914.

The Rev. Harlan Dclbridge, 3.A. offered prayer and thanksgiving for the life of this gracious personality and Master of English literature. Concluding the service by singing of the Doxology, we were greatly uplifted and counted it a privilege to have shared in this service of sacred remembrance.

Returning down the mountain side we quietly sang "Under the wide and starry sky" e.nd the Samoan farewell song "Tofn. Mai ¡ffcleni".

"R.    P."

There is one. on the "Ke.toomba",

Who * 3 a favorite with the "Sta.ff's And the passengers a.ll love him, Aid his kookaburra laugh.

For he knows his job and does it With a zest the.t’3 good to see And the toast we give is ".P." Heartily.

So we all to him pay tribute,

For a. ts.sk that’s been 'we 11 done, For a comradeship crce.tcd,

With a jolly lot of fun.

And we hope aga.in to find him Booking us for "pastures new"

Where we’ll sec the fa.ee of R.P. Smilin' thro’.

" f.

THE TIN CAN MAIL.

NUIAFO’OTJ.

"Tin Can Mail" was a cry that had almost magic power as the "KATOOMBA" drew near to this great lonely rock of the Pacific. 710 letters with approximately £9 were placed in a sealed tin can and dropped by the 1st Officer into one of the two waiting canoes, i Another large tin filled with sweets, gifts and some cash addressed to the Wesleyan Church, Tin Can Island, was also lowered. Word had reached them from Tonga that the ship would call at the Island and to the ecstacy of the passengers and crew envelopes bearing the Island stamp and numerous cancellation marks by the Post Office were sent on board as a souvenir of the visit. This mail was the first received from any ship of Australian register. Prior to 1919 letters were received from passing ships by "Rocket Mail". Later, the "Swimmer Mail" was instituted when strong swimmers lashed the Tin Can to a bamboo and floated it ashore. In 1930 one of these brave men was taken by a shark and since then the Tin Can Canoe Mail operates. A little home-made out-rigger canoe flies a yellow flag with a simple inscription ."TIN CAN MAIL".

The present Postmaster, Mr. W. G. Quensell, forwarded a letter to our ship stating that the population is 1,275, he himself being the only white man on the Island. It was interesting to learn that the U.S.S. Steamer "MARAMA" landed on one trip 12,000 letters and last year the "M0N0WAI" 28,000. In 18 months the "MONTEREY" and "MARIPOSA" sent 56,000 letters ashore, and since 1919 at least a quarter of a million of such letters have left the Island. The passengers and officers of the "KATOOMBA" greatly appreciated the courtesy of the gift letter to each, and recognised behind it the gracious and thoughtful spirit animating our Royal host of Tonga.

This little incident occurred during our visit to Samoa -

While inspecting one of the numerous fine buildings there a lady noticed a tablet on the wall bearing an Inscription In the native language. She copied it with great care, and later asked a friend to interpret it for her.

The interpretation was as follows

"Please do not spit or lean against this wall."

Needless to say she has not copied any more inscriptions.

F I J,I.

WAKAYA - A War Story.

•    A lighthouse far off the shores of the island

indicates the treacherous horseshoe reef, where many good ships have been wrecked. Behind it is the rugged outline of WAKAYA.

It was here in the early days of the war that Count Von Luckner and a small party sought shelter after their escape from the wreck of the "Sea Adler" a 1000 miles eastward.

In their little oil pinnace "Cecile" they crossed over and entered Fijian waters. Our guide, this morning, told us the fascinating story of their sheltering at Katavaga near his mission station and of the farcical capture of this daring adventurer by Sub. Inspector Hills on the information laid by the half caste - Macpherson. But that story has been told by Lowell Thomas in the book "SEA DEVIL". We shall read the book with zest because of this passing glimpse of the scene of the capture.

NASELAI.

We have now passed the noble contour of Ovalau, the capital of which is Levuka, the seat of Thakombau’s provisional government. It was there that the deed of cession of Fiji to Great Britain was signed.by the Chiefs in 1874.

Far.ahead to westward the glasses pick up another lighthouse on the edge of an extensive reef NASELAI. Near by are the broken hulls of several ships, for it was here the Coolie ship "SYRIA" on (See below) Was wrecked with 600 odd indentured Indian labourers on board. Thanks to the leadership of Sir William McGregor and Dr. Frederick Langham, our Methodist Chairman, the Fijians organized a rescue party that saved all but fifty of those drowning Indians, and that night they were hospitably entertained by the Fijians in the nearby village.

The gleaming beach beyond reminds us that from these sands the lamented Kingsford Smith took off in the "Southern Cross" in that famous Trans-Pacific "hop". What stories of adventure these islands hold for the traveller 1

In 1P84 this steamer was wrecked and 439 out 4?4 on board together with all the crew, were safely landed.

-.......We welcome you to our shores and hope that your so

short sojourn in Suva will fully impress upon your minds the significance of the work and enormity of the task undertaken by the Missionaries.

At the end of these first hundred years you yourselves have witnessed to that improvement, and that work is consummated by the grace of God.

G. THAKOMBAU.

.    B A U.

THE FIJIAN CONCERT

Even as the first night of the visit to the Islands was spent at the Royal Concert at Nukualofa, so the final night ashore before the return journey to Australia commenced, was devoted to the Fijian Concert held in the Town Hall, Suva, on 29th May, 1937.

Several items of very high order were heard from the Jubilee, Davuilevu and Ballantine Memorial School Choirs. The Christian Endeavourers of Davuilevu sang that well known hymn of the movement "There's Sunshine in My Soul Today". '

There were four Mekes or native dances. These were accompanied by the beating of Lalis and chanting in monotone by groups behind the dancers. The Ballantine Memorial School provided the youngest children seen in a concert programme since the tour commenced.

Two humourous selections from Davuilevu were appreciated by the audience. These were "Belling the Cat" and a burlesque radio programme.

The proceedings were brought to a successful conclusion by the singing of the Massed Choirs of that pleasing Pacific Island song "Isa Lei".

One of the outstanding events of this Cruise was the Coronation Thanksgiving Service held in the Town. Hall, Suva on Sunday»

May 30th» at 10 a.m. On this lovely morning a very large audience crowded every part of the spacious hall. Most reverently the Choir sang the Introit (The Lord is in His Holy Temple.) Hymn sheets were printed with the words in .both English and Fijian so that all could follow. Every part of the service was conducted in nicely phrased and excellently enunciated English that could he heard hy all. Joni Ledua» who recently visited Australia, offered a choice prayer of thanksgiving for the beauty of the earth and invoking the blessing of God upon their distinguished visitors from Australia. The 21st Psalm was read and two brief beautiful printed prayers in both languages offered foratile King, Queen and members of the Royal family. A short period of silent prayer preceded the sacred remembrance of the late Rcv.L.E.Saville, followed by a tender rendition of the hymn "Good ITight Beloved" beautifully sung by the Jubilee Choir. The first address was delivered by Inokc Thakautini (well known in Victoria,) In an address of rare English he said " I welcome you as Christians, as British subjects and thirdly as brethren in Jcsu3 Christ." He offered warm welcome to them, to this land of peace and eternal summer. "Fiji," s&idhc, "is a handful of gems sprinkled over the ocean by the lavish hand of God." Now these people have given up their old gods and turned to the True God who is King of Kings and Lord of Lords.

The second address was given by Joni Ledua, who chose the text 1 Peter 2: 17 "Fear God, Honour the King." "These words," said he "wc find on the Fijian flag and our coat of arms, but we.find them also in Fijian hearts, for we are a loyal people." Fiji waé handed over in 1874 to Great Britain and wc have appreciated partnership in this great Empire. We do not need    big    warships' and great    guns to keep us in order.

We arc an orderly people    and    it is the    reign of    the King of Kings 'which

has made us law abiding citizens. '•

The Rev.Ramsay Looki, our first Indian Minister, addressed the congregation on India's loyalty. He spoke eloquently about the guiding hand of God in the Empire's life and claimed that India's loyalty to the throne and the    person of the    King was    second to none. It

would not be too much to    say    that more    Indian lips and Tndian lives were

expressing loyalty to the King and Queen than of any other pc.ople.

He concluded a fine address by referring to the happy consummation of the Coronation of King George VI.

Isikeli Laveta, who' did successful deputation work in New South Wales and Queensland last year paid a glowing tribute to King George and Queen Elizabeth. He declared that the Fijians could not forget their*visit to their Islands 10 years ago. "Wc honour King George who stands for nobility and uprightness, but we all love Queen Elizabeth. We cannot forget her charm and her kindness." It was a charmingly expressed tribute to noble womanhood by a bachelor son of a widowed or Mother.

2 f

( contd. » ) o


Coronation Thanksgiving Scrvico - Suva

The last address touched the high water mark of spirituality and was delivered hy Wilson Inia a Rotuman, who speaks four languages. His subject was "Advance Fiji," and based his address on the text "Righteousness exalteth a Nation." He asked the question,

"How is Fiji to advance?" and he answered his own question by describing the history of Fiji the last 100 years. Declaring himself with telling conviction as a Christian with a firm belief in Jesus Christ as a personal Saviour was the advance which follows on faith in Christ. Very courageously he attached the evils of some forms of Western civilization, but at the same time graciously acknowledged certain benefits brought by the Europeans. He asked for the vital help of our prayers. It was a thoughtful penetrating address and a fitting climax to a scries of memorable addresses. The service ended with the Gloria, the Benediction pronounced by the Chairman of the District, Rev.C.L.Lelean, and the National Anthem.

(A highly placed Government official who was present at the service remarked to one of our leaders that if was a most significant service conducted in English by young men of the Colony and gave great hope for the future.)

FIJI CENSUS, 1936.

19?,379


Total population Fijians and Rotumans 100,367 Indians    ?3,902

Half-castes etc.    4,374

Chinese    1,731

J apanese    62

Rate of increase since 19 21_— -Fij ians 136 uer 1000

Indians 402 per 1000

P6 <fo of the Eijians are Methodists

Only 1,633 Indians were returned as Christians.

THIS IS LESS THAN TW«2 PER CENT.

in


Here lies the biggest racial and the South Pacific.


missionary problem


Fiji is a land of striking contrasts. Its history, peoples and conditions. One hundred and two year's ago marked the advent of its first two European Missionaries, William Cross and David Cargill. Lakemba in the Eastern part of the group was the scene of the labours of these heroic pioneers. Of the darkness and degradation of the Fijians, of those days, no words can complete ly tell. We Europeans may well remind ourselves that the earliest contacts with those of our own race added even more lurid colours to the fearful picture of those days, immediately prior to the breaking of the Dawn. Tanoa and his son Seru, and their warriors of Bau, Tui Kila Kila of Somo Somoand Tui Nayau of Lakemba were wild and savage, but their contact with ex-convicts from Botany Bay, runaway sailors, and buccaneers added unparalleled horrors to the reign of Club Law.

The triumphs of the Gospel in Fiji is the epic story of Christian evangelism in the nineteenth century. The birlth of missionary zeal which sent forth her sons and daughters to unreached untouched areas to carry the Gospel message is a new version of apostolic love. The words of Aminio Bale, the spokesman of that first heroic band to leave Fiji for New Britain expressed their interpretation of the Christ Law to which they gave their glad allegiance. "We have heard a call, and go we must." The messengers, not of death seeking victims for orgies of feasting, but of life, given in a sacrament of service. That missionary purpose still persists and never yet has an appeal been made when Fiji has not given her sons and daughters willingly, placing all on the altar of service, seeking only to obey the command - "Love one another."

The Fijians are nominally Christian, but we have the anomaly of another, introduced race, in striking contrast, Indians of various religions and creeds. For the creation of this condition we are responsible. In the pursuit of commercial aims we brought in labourers, recruited in India and engaged under an indenture system for work on the plantations. To the evils, happily past, of that indenture system, there is no need to refer, but the aftermath is with us yet. Of the 85,000 Indians, 60$ Fijian born, less than 1,000 are associated with the Christian Church. The challenge of this great anti-Christian race is almost overwhelming in its complexity. For more than thirty years we have been baffled in our endeavours to meet this condition, and the menacing magnitude of the task grows with the passing years.

God save Fiji, and show us how to win Indian-Fiji for Christ is the prayer of those who know the pressure of the Challenge, in this land of triumph and failure.

We sing as we separate "Isa Lei" - "May we not forget thee", where remembrance brings blessings»

. THE DEPARTURE FROM,, SUVA

I sit on deck, looking down on the assembly of people below. The black fuzzy-headed Fijians predominate among the shorter cropped Indians, half-caste and others. Exceedingly graceful, petite and charming are the Indian girls, so fascinating in.their gossamer dresses of dainty tints, richly embroidered, draped with simple elegance. The Fijians are wonderful in clean white, with kilts and coloured ties and belts.

Strains of sacred song are floating on the evening air, those on the ship and those on the wharf joining together in farewell hymns and anthems. Streamers are being thrown out and up and the side of the boat presents much the same appearance as when leaving an Australian wharf, except that the crowd below are mostly dark-faced, fuzzy-headed, barefooted, and white-clothed.

Goodbye Fiji the beautiful! The last streamer has broken. The sun is setting as we look regretfully towards the dear friends on shore waving farewell. The brilliant reds and yellows of glorious tropical vegetation are fading into the denser, darker green. Fronded palms are reflected in the still water or are silhouetted on the skyline. The sea is like a sheet of ruffled glass. The pilot has just gone, his boat passing between the ship and a brown coral reef, behind which is a ribband of silver sea, lapping the feet of densely wooded hills. Beyond them rise the pale blue, sharply peaked mountains, above which are woolpack clouds of pearl and smoky grey, broken and jagged as if they were imitating the wild mountain peaks below them. Above all, there floats a large cloud of indigo, surrounded by brilliant rose and crimson, with long narrow wispy bands trailing away towards the land we have just. left. The sky has unfurled its streamers too and they float out in sunset tints to the eastern shores of Suva Bay.

Farewell Fiji! Money-making traders may .say what they will. The Gospel of .Christianity has transformed these people. One has only to see the old photographs of them to note the difference of expression in their faces then and now. The old ones show a haunted, wild, and often ferocious countenance, where now they are calm and restful. The features are the same, but the expressions, how different!

Goodbye, Fiji, the Beautiful!

2 7

THE GIFT NIGHT.

Human nature being what it is, thrills at the thought of getting something for nothing. When it was announced at dinner that Island gifts were to be distributed that evening there was a flutter of expectancy.

These gifts, excellent samples of native arts and crafts, had been brought in by generous native friends and placed in the care of the Committee of Management. The presents were varied, comprising tappa, mats, fans, baskets, native gala dresses, fringe skirts, necklaces and tortoise shell ornaments. Originally they had included a number of living fowls and a dog. The livestock was handed over to the Ship's cooks - even the dog disappeared and was not recognised on the menul

The non-perishable gifts were placed in bond to await distribution. Though there were 410 passengers, it was the slogan of the Committee "Every pilgrim a present". To ensure fairest distribution every gift was numbered and tickets with corresponding numbers were shuffled, passengers filing past to each receive a ticket.

Santa Claus, with the gifts, was located in the First Class Smoke room. On this occasion he was triplets, comprising Santa Claus Rycroft, Santa Claus Yates, and Santa Claus Nash.

They were roped in with the goods presumably to prevent them making off with anything they fancied themselves!

A gift would be selected, accomplices called the number of it, and a voice the amplifyer (which as it happened didn’t amplify) announced it to the ship. The holder of the number elbowed through the crowd in the lounge, or if having an "after-dinner" nap, was pushed half asleep into the presence of Santa Claus, amid the cheers, chaffing and laughter of the crowd, which like excited schoolboys were out for fun and got it.

A whole day had been spent by the three gentlemen mentioned above, tying, labelling and numbering the presents.

They may feel happy to know that their attempt at equitable distribution has met with hearty appreciation and no word of complaint has been heard concerning this pleasant evening.

ZQ

MOUfiRN MISSIONARY PROBLEMS.

The Problem of Hew Conditions.

While we have been tremendously impressed vd th the intensity of the transformation which has taken place in Tonga, Samoa and Fiji, some of us feel that we have been face to face with a missionary problem of the greatest magnitude, namely, the Problem of the Hew Con -ditions which our civilization has forced upon the people.

• ' i. ' ' •' '    •    - - , *    ■ :    ‘ 7 ' '

It is apparent that the natives are in a state of transition. Modern commercialism is evident everywhere and it looks as though native culture will ultimately be overwhelmed. In conversation with our Missionaries it was encouraging to find that they are fully alive to the present critical situation, and are taking the broadest possible view of their responsibility. They feel that their task is to" save their people for this life as well as for the next, and that if they do not help them to adapt themselves to the new conditions it will be said that Missionaries saved people only to lose them again.

/nd so we find that our representatives are anxious to initiate an adequate industrial and agricultural policy for their people. They feel that they must work not merely for the survival of the fittest, but also for the fitting of as many as possible to survive, to flourish, to enter into a bigger, fuller, richer life. Emphatically, it is not enough to teach the natives the way of salvation through Christ. More must be done for them, they must be helped to realise the dignity of Christian manhood by a life of industry and progressive intelligence.

..    ■    .., r    -    •    .    f .    t

■In Fiji, our Missionaries have come to grips with this problem of the new conditions. Strong industrial and agricultural schools have been established and are becoming increasingly valuable as a method of race building. The South Sea Islander is linked to his land, aid land development for him means character develoxement. And what is being done in Fiji in regard to teaching up-to-date methods of industry and agriculture needs to be done at once in Tonga and Samoa. We know our Missionaries long with a great longing to develop their work on these practical lines, but are crippled for lack of funds.

.. .    .    .    .    .    •; T. •    •    1 i    •

Tubou College in Tonga, Piula and Faleula Colleges in Samoa have done, and. are still doing, magnificent woik in the training of men for teaching and preaching. The great mass of young men, however, cannot be teachers and preachers, and therefore the establishment of Industrial and Agricultural Schools for Tonga and Samoa has become a matter of urgency.

A remark wan panned on Hoard (not by a Methodist) "Leave the niggers alone, you'll never change them. The Lord made them different and the leopard, cannot change his spots nor the Ethiopian his skin."

This net me thinking a good deal. Is it possible? Can the dark man be changed? The answer came from one of the Fijians who spoke on "Advance Fiji" at the Sunday morning service, who proved that the leopard has changed his spots.

One hundred years ago, only the most courageous missionarie filled with the love of G-od and their brother men, would venture to land in Fiji. On Saturday last, over 400 pilgrims landed in Fiji, with never a thought of fear, greeted. - not by bloodthirsty savages in war paint, ferociously eager to kill and eat the newcomers -but by hundreds of smiling Fijians "clothed and in their right minds" welcoming us with smiles and hand-clasps, no weapons even thought of. Surely the leopard’s spots had changed.'

Then we have all read of the Indians and their caste system Some castes would starve to death rather than eat food over which the shadow of a man of another caste had. passed. Their women strictly "purdah", never mixing with another caste, let alone another race.

How the leopard’s spots have changed.’ Here we saw the Fijians and Indians sitting peaceably, side by side in a Methodist service.

What is the great power which can cause even a leopard to change his spots?    Nothing*but the love of God, as shown to us

by Jesus Christ, His Son. When all accept Him as their elder Brother, then all are in the one great family.

1LX- STEFEHSOTf_

+ve l1 ’Jafj conceived a great prejudice against missions m tne South beas^and I had no sooner come there than that

"hose°who ai+±'irft' reduced, and then at last annihilated

WoVtS ooV/ttrte! oTthfspot!10"8 hOT6 01,17 °ne tMni?

MARK TWAIN on missionaries to Hawaii.. "the fnnVP,+

"Standing with reluctant f.c-t,

\/herc the brook and river meet".

How fitting these words, from Longfellow’s poem "Maidenhood" applied to the many groups of girls from our colleges whom we met as we~travelled around the Islands.

Leaving girlhood behind and stepping out into the unexplored fields of womanhood - the larger life, md the wider influence, what latent talent is there J What potential leadership.' Who can estimate the effect of the influence of this great company of young womanhood on their respective countries? If it be true thrt "no country can rise above the status of its womanhood" thc-n something of the value of the training that is going on amongst the. native girls in our different schools can bo imagined.

Who can forget that band of happy, healthy, friendly blue clad girls who greeted us in Tonga? We were not able to see the actual school work, but there were me.ny little incidents that revealed the training for the larger fuller life that is being carried out under Mrs. Thompson’s fine leadership. With only one Tongan teacher to help in the school, and the loving service of her niece in the home, Mrs. Thompson is doing a splendid work for Christ, and the little kingdom of Tonga, the fruits of which arc being seen now in the different villa.gcs to which the girls return.

On the road out to the boys’ school, many blue clad girls were walking. A car stopped and one of the occupants risked a young school girl who was a relative, to accept a ride in the car. "We are not allowed" was the reply. "What a shamesaid the man, but another remarked "What discipline, what a sense of honour".’

One could not help but be struck by the sense of honour and responsibility that is being developed amongst the girls. At Piula, watching the beautiful physica.1 culture display, one noted the absence of supervision by Miss Wallace, the teacher. "The responsibility is theirs" was the reply, when this was commented upon. "They know I expect them to carry out the programme, and placing the responsibility on them is good training."

That same training we observed in the Ballantine Memorial School, Fiji.

As we think of these three fine schools, and their leaders, Mrs. Thompson of Tonga, Miss Wallace and her delightful group of green clad girls on the green at Piula., Samoa, and Miss Tolley with her white clad girls singing their songs and dancing their mekes, we realise that a great work for Christ is. being done in the lives of these girls stepping out into womanhood.

Our responsibility as sister women, must be to uphold their hands in prayer, that God will lead them on in the great work to which He has called them.

3 I

THE MUSIC OP THE ISLES

The sweet lilting melodies of the "Aloha Oe" of Hawaii, and "isalei" of Fiji, and the vigorous part-singing of the Tongan Choirs had prepared some of us for the feast of music provided for the Cruise, but few suspected the standards that would be reached. At Nukualofa we were furnished with a "Bo-Hiva" (night of song). What a night it was!; ten Choirs rendered four items each, many being excerpts from the great Masters of religious music! These, we were told, were the defeated Choirs of the Annual Competitions! 'What would the victors be like!’ The annual Methodist Church Choir Competitions synchronised with our visit to Vavau; the champion Choir from Nukualofa travelling with us on the "Katoomba".

On a gloriously bright moonlight night thousands of people gathered in the open air on the village green. Seated on all the available chairs, seats and rugs, we sat for two hours and heard no less than eighteen Choirs render their test pieces. There were not less than an average number of thirty voices in each Choir. In orderly fashion and in pleasing costumes of uniform colouring and style they filed in, bowed and retired with dignified movement that would have graced a modern theatre.

The anthems chosen included such masterpieces as "And the Glory"; "The Heavens are Telling"; "Worthy is the Lamb" "The Gloria (Mozart1s 12th Mass); Jackson’s "Te Deum" Stainer' "What are these"; and Handel's "Hallelujah Chorus".

One of Mendelssohn’s, "Lift up your Heads" conducted by an old Tongan College bey especially pleased the audience.

The flute-like notes of the sopranos in "Who is the King" were crystal clear and the answering bassos splendidly sonorous.

Then the rendering of-"Comrades in Arms" by a mixed Choir was rousing. Only once was there a repetition in the whole evening.

In both Nukualofa and Vavau we saw no music sheets or instrument. These long and difficult masterpieces had been committed to memory and reflected enormous practice 'under skilled Tongan Conductors. The only mechanical device observed was the Eardley pitch pipe which, with one solitary exception, had replaced the tuning for., of Curwen’s generation.

<    . Not once did our body of organists and choir members

detect a mistaken entry or omission. Their maintenance of pitch was remarkable. Sometimes the high range of anthems and overlifting of the keys gave the sopranos - mostly of the mezzo quality - a struggle, but when they did not reach the high notes naturally,they cleverly passed into falsetto.

In our Company was a former member of the famous Lydiard Street Choir of Ballarat,, conducted by Mr. Hadyn West, he writes - "I am sure the great South Street Competition of Ballarat could not stage such a wealth of talent. These choruses from the great Masters were sung with excellent rhythm, great power and perfect harmony. It seemed incredible that such excellent effects could be obtained."

The passenger list included a one-time organist and choir master from the historic church of St. Martins-in-the-FieId (London) who also writes - "I was impressed by the unsuspected quality of the singing in the Islands and the capable conducting of the native conductors. I wondered if there is in these people some latent refinement and innate sensitiveness which led to the ready adoption of and found natural expression in the music introduced by Dr. Moulton and his successors".

As far as our limited experience went, we were somewhat disappointed with the ordinary hymn-singing of the congregations. In some cases the precentors pitched the keys too high for the sopranos and congregations. This view was pleasantly relieved by hearing two Choirs render those splendid tunes from the new Methodist Hymn Book "Lest we forget" and "Dallas". The inclusion of hymns as well as anthems In the Competitions will correct this side. This feast of song revealed the magnificent training given by ex Principal Wood, and his successor - Rev.

Walter Shepherd, may be trusted to carry forward the good work.

At Samoa we heard the same lovely voices just as beautiful and just as capable of the standard reached in Tonga. Under the musicianly leadership of Rev. Mr. Pardey we may confidently expect excellent results.

In Fiji we heard but one Choir - The Jubilee Methodist -The Fijian language having no aspirates and using "r" Instead of "1" as in Tonga and Samoa starts off with a distinct advantage and a smoother tone, is obtained. Though this Choir lacks the solid practice of Tonga they achieved a high standard and their rendition of "Gloria" in English would put many a European Choir to shame. Their singing of the introit, "The Lord is in His Holy Temple" (in Fijian) flowed with a wealth of harmony and blending of voices, rarely heard in: our home churches. The best solo voice heard on the Cruise was in this Choir. It was the rich mezzo soprano of Adi Melaia, wife of Ratu J.Lukuna, B.A.,

The hymn singing was much better at Suva and such tunes as "Lydia", "Rimington" and "Cwm Rhondda" led. the whole congregation in a paean of praise.

The members of the cruise have been greatly uplifted by the inspiring music heard wherever they went.

How true it is that a nation can rise only to the level of its womanhood! In Tonga we had the great privilege of close contact with Her Majesty Queen Salote, that beautiful, wise and gracious Christian,.so unselfish and thoughtful, who by her character and example has so greatly influenced her people of Tonga. One could not help being impressed by the modesty, refinement, kindness thoughtfulness, generosity and graciousness of the Tongan women and their whole-hearted love and devotion to their Queen.

As v/e talked with Her Majesty she told us of the 400 women of high rank, splendid Christians and leaders, who meet regularly once a month in the Royal Chapel where the Queen as their leader, helps them    with    their problems and    gives    them wise counsel

which they in turn    pass    on to the women in    the sections where they

have control. We    know    how the Queen puts    first    things first and

her motto might well be    "Tonga for God and    Tonga    for the Tongans."

We met some of these chiefly women - Muimai, the aunt of the late Princess Fusibala who almost overwhelmed us by her gratitude for the little we were able to do,for her niece, while she was in Australia. Tuna at Vavau was another gracious personality..

The hostesses at the afternoon tea given us that first day in Nukualofa were the old girl-s of Tubou College who, under their Queen*s leadership, so courteously carried out their duties.

We had the joy of shaking hands with these fine women.

Where would you find more innate refinement than in the Queen1s Ladies-in-Waiting, Fatafeil and Fetutuki?

In the pa]ace we saw some quite small girls whom the Queen keeps constantly with her, so that they shall have no fear of her, and quite naturally shall learn her wishes, her likes and dislikes, and as the older" ladies-in-waiting marry, be ready to take their places.

Faubu'la's beautiful young wife, Asenata, we visited in her own clean artistic home, and we saw the influence of the training given at Tubou college.

In Samoa the graceful movements of the women and their fine carriage impressed us. Again in the wives of mission teachers we noticed the added grace and good breeding that Christian education gives.

In Fiji Mrs. Derrick has started the 'Qele Ni Ruve"

(a women's Christian guild; which is exerting a strong influence over the lives of thousands of the older Fijian women who felt how much they missed by not having had in their girlhood the    .

opportunity of the education now given to Fijian girls.

r/f.

'■ ■ . ...THE GATE-CRASHERS. '

;    . We, King (J.K.) of England and Consort, world

travelling incognito, were fortunate to see quite accidentally an announcement of the Dream Cruise in an Adelaide Methodist paper.

, .* \ ‘    • * , 1 * .

How glorious'. What a temptation! Could we contort our sober Anglican features until they looked like happy Methodist faces, and, bearing in our hands Methodist hymn books, large size, attempt to crash the gates?

I had some misgivings about introducing my Consort to Fiji, as I could imagine myself a baked meat at a feast celebrating the said Consort*s annexation by a cannibal chief, but the relation of these fears only made her the more determined to embark on the adventure. So off to the Methodist headquarters. There we found it quite unnecessary to try to pose as Methodists, and were assured of a warm welcome by the Organiser when we reached Sydney, and a shakedown on the "Katoomba" if there were still room.

We went to the Sydney office and there met the Rev. Richard Piper, Organiser of Dream Cruises, friend of Royalty and Chiefs, and great drinker of kava, and found him delighted to include in the party two humble Anglicans from St. Martin-in-the-Fields in far-off London, the church on which Nelson looks down from his lofty column, and where Nell Gwyn lies buried - the rendezvous of Christians of all sects and no sect, where through the "ever open door" the shelterless find refuge from the inclement weather at night.    #

Never In our wildest dreams did we imagine we should bathe our souls in the beauty of these Tropic Isles, nor shake hands and converse with that gracious and noble lady, the beloved Queen of Tonga, nor that we should be privileged to visit the haunts of dear R.L. Stevenson, nor, greater honour still, to walk in the hallowed footsteps of those brave Methodist pioneers.

What tales we shall have to take back to the homeland! What a genial, happy crowd these Australian Methodists are!

How kind they have been to the strangers within their gates!

We cannot express adequately our appreciation of the friendship and kindness shown to us by all members of the party, nor our admiration of the organising skill, tact and courtesy of the members of the Committee, and to them we tender our heartfelt gratitude.

THE HARMONY

Three Impromptu Concerts, a Pleasant Sunday afternoon and two lectures contributed pleasant harmony to ‘the Cruise. The "Katoomba" Trio - Miss Keyes (Piano), Misses Blackburn and Murphy (violins), rendered excellent orchestral items and accompaniments to the solos, Community singing and hymns. Such was their versatility and excellent memories that they could switch on accompaniments and ready transpositions at a moment’s notice.

They deserve our special thanks.

On the first night out from Sydney we indulged in happy Community singing conducted, by our Musical Director (Rev. Wesley Amos). The Choruses "How do yo . do everybody" and "The more we are together" proving most popular. The Conductor taught us the pleasing Island Folk songs "Tofa Mai Feleni" (Samoa),

"Isalei" (Fiji) and the stately Tongan National Anthem.

Our soloists in the Cruise Entertainments included Mrs. Pollard and Miss Stone (Soprano), and Miss Brown (Contralto)

Mr. Rigby (Baritone) - whose singing of the Oxford Group song the "Bridgebuilders" was welcome - Mr, Neil (tenor). Vocal duets were rendered by Miss Changato (Alto) and Mr. Neil (tenor) and Miss Humphreys and Miss Nell Smith. There were several beautiful voices and all were deeply appreciated. Miss Dods delighted us with her sweet Mandoline solos as did Miss McVey,L.R.S.M., in her exquisite pianoforte selections from memory. Misses Fielding and Gloster were efficient accompanists. Recitations were given by Mrs. Gilmour, Misses Gloster, Perry and Eva Fisher, and by Rev. W.H. Sanders and Mr. Hutchinson whilst Miss Starr's musical monologue added to the wealth of talent aboard. The Revs.G.H. Hewitt and A. Wesley Amos gave beautifully illustrated lectures on Tonga and Samoa.

We take this opportunity of thanking all the artists for their several pleasing contributions.

THE DEVOTIONS ON BOARD THE T.S.S. "KATOOMBA".

The keenness shown for the periods of devotion on board has been most arresting. Every morning, for a period of twenty minutes, devotions have been conducted in the First Class Lounge, and on no occasion has sufficient seating accommodation been available. The leaders have been drawn from the Ministers, Laymen and Ladies on board, all of whom have contributed that variety of leadership that makes every-meeting different. The piano has been taken by both ladies and gentlemen with conspicuous ability, and we congratulate the Churches which, in many instances, can speak of these gifted artists as their organists.

The prayers have been spontaneous and eager, betraying the many interests lying near to the hearts of the pilgrims, on no occasion has the Queen of Tonga, the Missionaries of the Islands, or the Church among the natives been forgotten. It has been most pleasing to continually hear prayers for the Master of the Ship, his Officers, and members of the crew; the organiser of the Cruise, and others responsible for our safety and comfort.    *

Cur first Sunday out from Sydney was Whit Sunday. At the 11 o’clock service led by Rev. A. Wesley Amos, with Miss Gloster at the piano, Rev. H. R. Rycroft preached a most challenging message. .The "Te Deum" was sung. Every hymn was introduced by Mr. Amos with one of those interesting stories connected with the origin and history of the hymn and tune. A collection was taken up for the distressed Sailors’ fund. At 3 o'clock, Rev. A. Wesley Amos chaired a Pleasant Sunday Afternoon, introducing some of.the unknown gems of the new Methodist Hymn Book, the Ship’s Radio.Trio contributing some fascinating Orchestral items. At half past seven we gathered for Evening ’Worship.1 Rev. R. Piper was in charge.

Rev. Reg. Nicholson demonstrated in a most powerful way from his experiences among the head hunters in the Solomon Islands the power of the Gospel of Christ to save. Happy hymn singing closed this most devotional Sabbath day. ■ Quite a unique, impromptu, and brief service of Thanksgiving was held on the Starboard Deck immediately after the evening meal on the day we sailed from Samoa, expressive of deep gratitude to God for the wonderful mercies and providences that had followed the Cruise from port to port throughout these dangerous waters.

The last four mornings of the Cruise as we approached Sydney were opportunities of fellowship in testimonies of blessings received. The first, on Tuesday morning, June 1st, was conducted by the young women, with Miss Ac J. Williams leading and Miss E. Judkins at the piano. Wednesday was the Women’s Fellowship, led by Mrs. M. K..Gilmour. Thursday was for the Laymen, with Mr.

Emert in charge, and Mr. King, of St. Martins-in-the-Field, London, at the piano. Friday, our grand finale, was the Ministers’ Fellowship. Rev. R. Piper lead and Rev. A. Wesley Amos officiated at the piano. The comments made throughout the Cruise reveal an eager desire for more fellowship in the sweet devotions of our Lord.

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The convener, Rev. G. F. Dyson, expresses his thanks to the great body of men and women who, without exception, have considered it a privilege to take any part in the devotions of the Cruise.

THE MIRACLE.    .

Life brings with it many privileges,* to follow in the wake of Christ's pioneers in the Pacific must be regarded as one of the greatest. The early missionaries laboured and adventured for God and dreamed of winning the Isles for Christ. We have seen their dream in large measure fulfilled. Where they saw people sitting in darkness we have been gladdened by a great light making bright these pearls of the Pacific.    • '

Hard it is for us to realise what those first men and women of God endured for Christ's sake and the Pacific peoples for whom He died. We travel in comfort on a 9,500 ton liner almost as steady as our homes on terra firms, with variety of choice food and ices served by a friendly attentive staff. The pioneer Missionary tossed for weeks in tiny ships frequently infested as Masefield says; "With the wonders of the Lord, such as roaches crawlin' over his bunk and snakes inside his bread."

We saw a swarm of decorated "Fautasis" crowded with laughing Methodist men. The pioneers of the gospel saw crowded war canoes decorated with the gruesome trophies of severed heads and mangled bodies. We heard choicest music and hymns of praise ascending to our Father in Heaven, they quivered in horror at savage war cries and the hideous messages of the tom-toms. We see the happy countenances of people filled with the love of Christ, they saw the fear-ridden faces of men filled with superstition and bestiality. ***    .

What great things God hath wrought l

The men through whom He worked these changes were men who had felt His power in their own hearts and staked their lives on the belief that God's grace was sufficient for South Sea savages. They were gamblers for God, and they won.

We have seen with our own eyes the Christian gentlemen and gentlewomen of the South Seas. We thank God for the privilege of this voyage of Christian discovery. We praise Him for the things that we have seen and heard, and we will keep all these things and ponder them in our hearts.

"To God be the Glory,

Great things He hath done."

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OUR ARGOSY.

In the "beautifully "bound volume which contained the illumined address to the Queen of Tonga and the signatures of the pilgrims and the Ship’s officers, there was .a water-color painting on the fly leaf of a 17th Century sailing ship that reminds one of Masefield’s lines -

"Stately Spanish galleon coming from the Isthmus,

D: fpping through the Tropics by the palm-green shores,

With a cargo of diamonds,

Emeralds, amethysts,

Topazes, and cinnamon and gold moidores."

Ever since Argos built the famous galley for Jason in which he set sail to bring home one of the most precious and beautiful things in the world, the Golden Fleece, the name Argosy has been an appropriate title for any ship that carries precious and beautiful cargo.

Our steamer (T.S.S. "Katoomba") may not be as picturesque a figure on the heaving bosom of the Pacific as the old time galleon., nevertheless there was ample justification for the Cruise Organiser’s proud claim that the Steamer's cargo was exceedingly precious. In addressing Her Majesty he said:

"We have brought to you and your people the love and esteem and unbounded admiration of the Methodist Church of Australasia and we shall carry home from your shores the loveliest of memories. That is why we put on the first page of this volume the picture of an argosy."

And so our claim to be Argonauts and our steamer an Argosy depends upon the nature of our cargo. In a material sense the ship carried no cargo; even a cargo of "Tyne Coal, road-rail, pig lead, firewood, ironware and cheap tin trays" would have steadied her in the sea-way. But this we also know and exult in it - we conveyed a precious cargo of spiritual blessing to our fellow-Christians in the South Seas and we return home v/ith cargo-memories that v/ill enrich all our future days.

Therefore, whatever the final profit in £.s.d. that the balance sheet of the Treasurer may disclose, the essential value of this Cruise to the cause of Christ v/ill not be found in the money bags.

SPORTS AMD PASTIMES.

Throughout the Cruise deck sports were v/ell to the fore. In the early morning a physical culture class v/as conducted by the    Officer - Mr• Grant.

Well contested competitions in Circlos, Deck-quoits, Potter-tennis and the new game "Discos" introduced by Rev.A.M. Yates added greatly to the interest of the time at sea.

On Wednesday night (2nd June) the Fancy Dress Parade created intense interest and great merriment. A large percentage gladly entered into the competition of making costumes from materials on board. Great skill and ingenuity were displayed. Everyone seemed to agree that "a little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men" - so Wednesday night will be remembered for its wholesome gaiety and contagious good humour.

The Chief Officer (Mr. Burns),the Purser (Mr. Blake) and Miss Keyes (Orchestra) had a difficult task as judges. Towards the close of this happy evening the trophies for the various competitions were presented by the Organiser and the prizes for the Fancy Costumes were presented by the Commander. The Ship's company also sprang a surprise upon the Organiser ("One R.P.") when Mr• F. W. Emert handed him a roll of bank notes as a tangible token of their appreciation.

A cricket match at Nukualofa against the College boys afforded the Ship's team no little relaxation. After our team had scored about 30 runs for ten wickets the Tongans got going on their lovely cricket oval. Our bowlers soon wilted in the steamy heat. A heavy shower and the necessity to make way for important functions eventually obviated an ignominious defeat for the 'Aussies'.

Life aboard ship was exceedingly pleasant except on those few days when the "bad sailors" wanted to get out and walk home i

Unsolicited testimonies came from every part of the ship in praise of our happy family of pilgrims. The decks were kept clean, there were no night revellers, the few smokers confined their use of the soothing weed to the appointed reserves and the happy spirit of co-operation between the passengers and the Ship's complement made the whole voyage one of unalloyed pleasure.

BEST FANCY COSTUMES.

I. LADIES: 1st Miss Baker:    2nd Mrs. Pacldiam.

GENTS:    Revs. R. Piper and A.M. Yates.

II. Most Original Costume (made from materials on board) LADIES:    1st Miss Peach:    2nd Mrs. Fisher.

GENTS:    Rev. H. Lyth.

III. Best Sustained Character:

LADIES:    1st Mrs. White: 2nd Miss Gloster

GENTS:    Mr. H. W. Williams.

Special Prize:    "The old Gray Mare"

Mrs. J. Robinson and Miss Myra Sown.

Children's Prize:    Miss Ferguson and Master B. Yates.

DECK COMPETITIONS

The Winning pairs in each case were awarded handsome trophy cups, suitabl inscribed; runners-up were given cash prizes.

PATTER TENNIS: DISCOS:

DECK QUOITS: CIRCLOS:

DISCOS SINGLES


1st Miss Sparkes and Mr, Tippett.

2nd Mrs. Davey and Master H, Drayton.

1st Miss M. Rogers and Master H. Drayton. 2nd Mrs. J.H.Davis and Mr. W,W, Webster. 1st Miss Fletcher and Mr. R. Pescott 2nd Miss Humphreys and Mr. Bennett.

1st Miss D. Belcher and Mr. Thornell 2nd Miss E. Collins and Master H. Drayton.

CHAMPIONSHIP:    Miss Spence - Trophy Cup

Runner-up, Miss Myrtle Gloster.

PERSONNEL.

Committee of Management.

(Appointed by the Board of Missions)

Rev. G. H. Hewitt (Chairman), Mrs. Solomon, Miss A,J.Williams, Revs. R. Piper, A. W. Amos, H. R. Rycroft, R, C. Nicholson,

Messrs. F.W.Emert, H.L.Nash and Rev. A.M. Yates (Secretary).

Sports Committee (Appointed by the Passengers)

Mr. -F.W.Emert (Chairman) Mrs. W. T. King;

Misses Caldecott, M. Rogers, Matthews, Gloster and Perry:

Messrs Pescott, Curwood, Larkin, Heazlewood, Rigby and Linn;

Rev. A, M. Yates and W.T.King (Joint-Secretaries) and Mr. H.L. Nash (Treasurer).

Publication Committee (Appointed by the Committee of Management)

Rev. A. Wesley Amos (Chairman) Miss Perry.

Revs. R, C. Nicholson, H.R. Rycroft, A.M. Yates, F.H.Delbridge,B.A. (Editor) and Miss Nell Smith (Secretary)

Organizer of the Cruise Rev. Richard Piper.

Assistant Organising Secretary. Rev. A. Morris Yates.

Cruise Treasurer: Convener of DevotionsMusic Director:

Editor of the Brochure:


Mr. H. L. Nash.

Rev. G. F. Dyson Rev. A. Wesley Amos.

Rev.F.Harlan Delbridge, B.A.

Printed and published in Sydney. Price 1/- Postage 3d.